Twist-Out FAIL! [VIDEO]

My hair doesn't always do what I want it to do.  It doesn't always act the way I want it to act.  We fight sometimes.  Sometimes we fight a lot (see previous post "Why is my hair so big, and my two strand twists so small??"). But that's just how it goes.

Below is a short (ish) video on how those two strand twists, from the previous posting, looked when it took them down.  I was not really happy with the result.  It just didn't suit me.  I've said it a million times, I like big hair.  I wear big shoes,  and big bags, and big jewelry, and I like my hair to be big too.  It is a nice contrast to my modest frame.  I've seen this style look amazing on some folk.  Just not me.  Click on the vid, and let me know what you think.  - YB

Throwback Thursday! Levi's Edition.

This awesome ad harkens back to a more pure time in our history.  I sometimes wish I was a twenty-something back in the 70's.  Afros, black pride, and killer kicks. #OneCanDream.  -YB

Afro Perms??? [PICS]

I just had to giggle when I caught wind of this.

They have created a chemical process that can change straight hair into kinky afro hair.  Not wavy - not curly.  I'm talking straight up kinky!

Can all kinkies grow long hair?

Many kinkies can indeed grow long hair, but sadly, there are some that cannot. The key to determining potential length of some one's hair, is understanding hair growth cycles.  Every person has a genetically predetermined length to which their hair can grow.  There are 2 factors at play, to make this determination:  Average rate of growth and average length of time it takes the hair to shed.

On average, most people's hair grows between 1/4-1/2 inch a month.  That is 3-6 inches a year. ( I am not sure which end of the spectrum I fall, but I am inclined to believe my hair grows relatively quickly.  I will know for sure when I do my 1 year length check in 2014.)

The growth cycle of hair consists of 3 stages.  The growth phase, the resting phase, and the shedding phase. On average, most people's growth cycle is between 3-6 years, meaning, that is the amount of time it takes from when a new hair emerges, until the time of it's natural shedding.

Now, if you have a person whose hair grows below average at 2 inches a year, and whose hair  growth cycle is 3 years, the longest potential length that individual can achieve genetically, is 6 inches.  Once you take into account breakage or trimming, the length is even shorter.

On the other end of the spectrum, if you have a person whose hair grows above average at 7 inches a year, and their hair growth cycle is 6 years, the longest potential length that individual can achieve genetically is 42 inches. It will of course be shorter taking into account breakage or trimming.

I think it is difficult to gauge one's exact hair growth cycle, however tracking annual hair growth is a lot easier.  I have never attempted to grow my hair out, so I have no idea if I have potential for long kinks, of if I'm a short hair kink.  Either way, I think my hair is rad and I'm going to continue to werk it!! - YB

Low Manipulation Vs. Protective Styling - What's the big difference?

 

The best way to retain length whilst natural, and especially in the type 4 category, is to protect your hair.  If protection is not your thing, the next best way to retain length is to minimize daily manipulation.  The need for protective styling may not be as critical to other hair types for length retention, as for type 4 gals.  This is simply because our hair is the most fragile of all hair types, and therefore, the most susceptible to breakage.

For clarification, let's define the two practices:

Marley Bun Tutorial! [VIDEO]

This hairstyle is super cute, super stylish, and super easy to do!  It's definitely going to be my go-to for this spring.

What you'll need:
Styling gel
Natural fiber brush
Bobby pins
1 package of Marley Kinky Braid
4 black hair bands
Silk scarf

Why is my hair so big, and my 2 strand twists so small???

This is a question that has plagued me for a long time.  I have big hair.  Although it is very fine, I have a lot of strands, so my hair is super thick.  That is why I can't for the life of me, understand why in the world my two strand twists look so paltry.  I will concede that my postpartum shedding has devastated my edges, so that could explain the temples, but that is not the case around the rest of my head.

If you've seen my hair history video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY5LbeZCljI), you will notice I have a penchant for wearing my hair in bigger styles.  I like chunky twist-outs, and fluffy Afros.  My Marley buns are big.  When I have braids, they are super long.  My Senegalese twists are more dramatic.... When I wear my finger-comber unit, I wear it big.  I don't like to do things half way.  I'm a go-big-or-go-home type of girl.

Maybe someone out there can explain to me what the problem is.  Perhaps I don't have as much hair  as I thought....*sighs*.  Perhaps I need to improve my technique....*sighs again*

In any event, because of this disconnect, you will never catch me wearing my 2 strand twists out of the house.  NEVER.  I don't think the look frames my face nicely, and I don't think it provides enough drama for me.  I wonder if this will change as my hair gets longer.  Thoughts?? - YB

Can you guess the celeb??

This legendary Oscar-nominated actress has starred in over 40 films, and is known the world over for her youthful looks, bangin' bod, and amazing dramatic range.  Can you name this throwback kinky? -YB

 



Biotin - Hair Growth Silver Bullet?

After I lost a grip of hair due to post-partum shedding, I needed to try something to help stimulate hair growth.... particularly around my edges, because that is where the majority of my hair loss occurred.

I had read a lot about biotin on hair care forums/websites, and decided to give the supplement a shot.  Unbeknownst to me, I had already been taking about 1000 micrograms of biotin in my hair, skin and nails daily vitamin.  I upgraded to a 5000mcg dosage of pure biotin from Nature's Bounty (around $11.00 at the drug store for 60 pills), and waited to see what happened.  Now, I can't be 100% sure that what occurred next was due to the biotin, but it is the only thing I was doing differently.

After a several weeks of taking the biotin, I started to notice hundreds of these tiny little hairs around my head.  These hairs all had tapered ends which can mean one of two things - severely damaged or stripped ends, or brand new baby hairs.  Since the hairs were so widely spread out on my head, and not near any areas susceptible to breakage, I had to assume they were baby hairs.  In addition to all the new hairs, my edges have filled in, and are growing rather quickly.  I've had at least 2 inches of new growth around the edges since late January. 

There is a downside....A few years ago, the amount of active hairs on my legs reduced DRAMATICALLY for some unknown reason.  There were fewer hairs growing, and they were thin, and not as robust as in years prior.  I reckon the biotin doesn't discriminate, because they appear to have come back with a vengeance. 

I'm no scientist, but I do know my body.  It appears as if biotin is doing what it is supposed to  do, for me.   Everyone is different, and will react to things differently, so it may or may not work for you.  I will continue to use is on my natural hair mission to achieve strength and length.

pH Rocks! - Science Friday

What is pH?
pH is the measurement of how alkaline or acidic a substance may be.  The scale is numbered from 0-14, with 0 being highly acidic and 14 being highly alkaline.  Pure water lands squarely in the middle of the scale at 7 - a neutral substance, neither acidic nor alkaline.  It is important to note that the acidity and alkalinity increase exponentially as you move up and down the scale.  This basically means, if a substance has an alkalinity of 10, a substance with an alkalinity of 11 is 10 times more alkaline.  A substance with an alkalinity of 12 is 100 times more alkaline, and so on.  Here are some common substances, and their rankings:

Battery Acid 1.0

Lemon juice 2.0 (very acidic)

Vinegar 2.2 (very acidic….it should be diluted 1tbs to 1 cup of water for rinsing)

 

Water 7 (neutral)

Human Blood 8.3

Baking Soda 8.3

                        

Relaxer (10-14 varies depending on brand, lye vs. no-lye)

Ammonia 11.0

Lye – 13.0

 

Prolonged exposure to substances with pH’s at either extreme can cause damage to the hair strands.

Why do I care? 
Well my people, pH is critical for moisture retention in our kinky textured hair.  Generally speaking, healthy human hair has a pH level between  4.5-5.5.   Acidic hair products help seal the cuticles (scaley formations around each strand of hair). When the cuticle is closed, it seals in moisture, which allows the hair to thrive. Kinky hair is notoriously susceptible to dryness, which leads to breakage and is the enemy of length retention.    Our friends over at www.luvnaturals.com have put together some rockin’ videos discussing the structure of hair, and the effects of pH on your hair.  You can watch those videos here:
- YB

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i3MC4d-HmY&feature=share&list=PL5532B6CD987E1D88

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT9axA0A6_Q&feature=share&list=PL5532B6CD987E1D88

FroHawk Tutorial! [VIDEO]

This is seriously the easiest hairstyle in my arsenal.  It is not considered a protective style, but rather a low-manipulation hairstyle.  If you would like to extend the life of your twist-out or braid-out, this is definitely a tutorial you should check out! 

What you'll need:
Natural Bristle Brush
4-6 side hair combs
Bobby Pins
Styling Gel (optional)
Sheen Spray

Do you Know who INNA MODJA is? [PICS]

Inna Modja is a Paris-based French-Malian model/soul-pop singer, who is giving us LIFE.  She has been holding it down for  Kink-Brigade for over 10 years, and repping hard for L'Oreal's Mizani hair care brand.  Check out her website : http://www.innamodja.com/ for all the tea you can drink, and take a look at a duet she did with my favorite French singer Alain Chamfort. More pics after the jump.  Enjoy! - YB

Is hair Type all Hype?

 

There are a few systems in the hair care world designed to classify a person's hair type.  Knowing your hair type is helpful in selecting products, building a regimen that works for you, and finding hair styles that work for you.  The most popular typing system was created by my favorite (not favorite) celebrity hair stylist, Andre Walker, emphasizing curl pattern.  What is critical to fully understanding your hair type, and what is currently missing from the Walker System is the consideration of each individual's porosity, strand size, and hair density.  It is important to note that often times, more than one hair type exists on a single head.  The crown texture can be different from the nape or the edges, and so on.

 

Some people love hair typing, and some people hate it.  Some people think that it's divisive, and some people think it is the holy grail.  I personally think that hair typing is very useful as a starting point to understanding your own hair.

 

There is a wealth of information available online about natural hair care.  Watching girls with 3c hair spritzing water on their twist-outs to "refresh their curls", is not very helpful to a 4c kinky like me....try spritzing water on a 4c twist-out, and see what happens....Can I get a witness??  So in that regard, I know going in, that the tips I get from a fellow 4c gal would probably be more useful, than tips from a 3c gal.  That s not to say that you cannot learn anything from people with other hair types.  Some principles are universal - moisturizing, protective styling, pH balance, etc.  It just helps you know you hair is probably not going to do what the next type's will.

 

At the end of the day, take the typing chart for what it is.  But do your due diligence and find out about your hair's porosity, density, and strand size.  That is really the only way you can figure out what is going to work best for you.  No 2 heads of hair on this planet are exactly alike. - YB



 

 



 

Throwback Monday!

There was once a time when an ad like this was normal....par for the course.  There just aren't enough words on this planet to express my love for Afro Sheen right now .  This ad is EVERYTHING! - YB

5 Ladies We Would LOVE to see Go Natural! [PICS]

1.  First Lady Michelle Obama - It would be a dream come true to see our First Lady, as elegant as she is, werking her natural hair at 1600 Pennsylvania.....But we know it's never going to happen.  Not that I don't think it is something she would consider, but I can just hear the right wing already  - 'Look at the First Lady of the United States of America wearing a Black Power afro.  Who does she think she is representing the radical black racist movement with her hair!!  Let's impeach Obama!'  You might think I'm being over the top, but do you remember this little ditty from New Yorker Magazine, circa 2008?  I rest my case.

Book Review: The Science of Black Hair

 

When I started my hair mission to achieve strength, and length with my 4c textured hair, part of my preparation included reading A LOT of material on the more technical aspects of black hair and black hair growth.   One of the very best resources I discovered was 'The Science of Black Hair', by Health Scientist Audrey Davis-Sivasothy.  It is 250 pages of very simple, concise, and well organized information on the growth and maintenance of textured black hair - natural, and chemically relaxed.

The 1st unit covers the basics of hair and scalp structure,  growth stages and cycles, hair types, protein, pH, porosity and many other elements essential to understanding how your hair works.  It is absolutely paramount to have a functional understanding of all these things, if you want to build a healthy hair regimen from a place of knowledge.

The 2nd unit goes into the specifics of hair management, including information on regimen building, what tools to use, protein vs. moisture balance, the different oils and how they affect our hair, heat usage, breakage zones, and protective styling.   One of my very favorite sections in this unit, lists  a couple of hundred products that readers can work into their regimens.  These products include shampoos (moisturizing, chelating, and clarifying), conditioners (moisturizing, and protein rich), oils and butters, stylers, essential oils, carrier oils, and so on.  She has vetted, all of these brands and products, and provides a comprehensive list of items that are safe for our hair, and promote moisture, strength and growth.  Finding the right products can be a daunting task.  Although there are no product reviews, this is great place to start exploring your options.

Units 3-5 cover chemically treated hair, children's hair and the whole body-hair connection. 

Overall, a very easy read.  Simply written, to convey complex scientific principles in layman's terms.  No fluff, no politics, just information.   I would highly recommend this book.  Ms. Davis-Sivasothy has done us a great service. http://scienceofblackhair.com/  -YB

Kinky Icon of the Week: Lenny Kravitz!!

Kinks aren't reserved strictly for the ladies.  There are definitely some brothers out there representing the Kink-Brigade.  One of our faves being Lenny Kravitz, whose kinky hair literally rocks!  Look out for him in the upcoming sequel to The Hunger Games. Please enjoy the view! (And peep the little extra somethin'-somethin' @ the end....ain't got a durn -thing to do with no kinks!)

Protective Style of the Week: Marley Bun! [PICS]

I decided to deviate from my flat twist go-to 'do, and try something a little different today.  I've seen a couple of girls on the inter-webs do tutorials on up-do's, supplementing their own hair with Marley Braid.  I must say, the results were quite nice indeed...Not perfect, but not bad for a first-timer!

After removing my flat twists, I sprayed my hair down with water, put on a generous amount of Eco-Styler Gel, and brushed upwards, all the way around.  Instead of putting the hair up in 1 pony tail, I made 2 pony tails at the top of my head.  I twisted each pony tail to protect the ends, and tucked them away.

I used 1 package (2 separate bundles) of Marley hair, and 2 black hair bands. 
[Sidebar: I love the kinky Marley!!  It matches 4c texture so well!  I would look real cray with some Indian Remi sitting on top of my kinks!!]

I put 1 band around each bundle.  The took each bundle (one at a time), put the band around my own pony tails, and began to shape and pin.  The result is what you see in the pics.  Please stay tuned for my tutorial on this.  Coming soon!  - YB

Wash 'n Go?

 

Hell no!

It would be really awesome to be able to step in the shower, soak my kinks, throw in a dollop of gel, and head out the door with little springy coils.  But that is not the world I live in.  Wash 'n Gos stopped being an option for me when my baldy grew in longer than 1/2".

Being a 4c, we do have curls, as tiny as they are.  However, since they don't clump together in clusters, the definition is not cohesive an therefore not visible.  Attempting to wash 'n go, would leave my hair in a hot tangled mess fraught with knots and despair.

I have found a product that can actually define my curls and clump them together, giving the desired result and definition so many seek with the wash 'n go.  Literally, one product on this earth.  It is called American Crew Pomade (For men), and it retails from $9.99-$16.99 a jar (and it's tiny).  You can find it at Target, the grocery store, or any drug store across the country.  It is a product designed to style/hold straight textured men's hair, but is an INCREDIBLE moisturizer for me.  Makes my hair so soft and shiny and amazing.   Great for twist/braid outs.  (I will do a Youtube tutorial at some point in the future on how to define 4c curls using the Crew Pomade, because it does take some doing.  You don't just slap it in and get results....Please stay tuned for that. )

 

I personally, am not hung up on having springy curls, and rocking the Wash 'n Go look.  The whole point of Wash 'n Go, is to do precisely that.  Sitting in front of a mirror for 2 hours with a vat of gel, trying to coax out curls sort of defeats the purpose.  I have realized this particular style is not for me.  I am not going to try and force my hair to do something it just can't do.

 

What do you think??

 

 

10 Reasons Why Your Kinky Hair Rocks!!

10.  It's what your mama gave you!  You were born with these kinks....no amount of pulling, prodding, or Eco Styler gel is going to change that.  Love these kinks!  Werk these kinks!
9.   No one can rock an afro better than a kinky girl.  Our hair stands at attention, ready to take on the world.
8.   You've got plenty of it....and even if you don't, it sure looks like you do.
7.   It's so soft (if properly moisturized) & fluffy (even if you don't want it to be!).
6.   It drives the boys bananas....okay, not all the boys, but there is a small group of  dedicated man-fans out there....we know who you are!
5.  It's so pretty!!
4.  It is the most versatile hair on the planet.
3.  It stretches up to 3 times it's shrunken length...who else's hair can do that?
2.  We get the bangin'-est twist outs ever.  Hands down. 
1.  It's a labor of love, and anything worth having is worth fighting for.  -YB

Andre Walker is a natural hair care product hawker now? SMH.

Lo and behold....Oprah's kink-hating hairstylist has decided to make himself a few bucks by jumping on the natural hair care bandwagon....Why all the vitriol, you ask?  Well, let me refresh your memory. Back in 2011, Mr. Walker was quoted as saying (and I swear I'm not making this up):

"I always recommend embracing your natural texture. Kinky hair can have limited styling options; that’s the only hair type that I suggest altering with professional relaxing." 

Okay, kinkies - put down your samurai swords, and nunchucks.  He was dealt with....The backlash was swift and brutal.  So much so, he tried to back-pedal with the following cringe-worthy explanation:

"It is a fact that kinky hair (my Type 4 definition) is extremely fragile and breaks easily. Even when you are very careful, something as simple as combing can break this texture. It is very difficult to achieve a longer length when the hair breaks, even with simple combing. That being said, there is the style option of wearing braids, dreads, or twists, which allows the hair to grow longer because it is combed less often. Another style choice is to simply wear a shorter cut, which is very attractive on some women but just not right for others.

So when I say to embrace your natural texture, but consider relaxing kinky hair, am I contradicting myself? I don’t think so! You see, even relaxed hair can still be worn naturally. If you want a natural look, but find that your kinky hair is difficult to manage, breaks too easily, lacks shine and luster, and limits your preferred styling options, I say feel free to consider a mild chemical relaxer, sometimes called a texturizer, that eases your hair to a more manageable texture and allows you to Make Peace With Your Hair.”

 This new natural hair care line is set to launch in July, boasting sulfate-free shampoo, moisturizing conditioners, "Beautiful Kinks" (gag) styling crèmes, and a host of other products.  Now I suppose he sees an opportunity to make some cash off the girls he trashed.  I won't be spending my dollars on Mr. Walker's line. Will you? -YB

 

 

 

Length Check: April 1st, 2013!! [VIDEO]

It's length check day!  Hooray! I had major issues with knots and split ends recently (see Fairy Knot Slayer part II), so I had to chop, chop, chop! Kinks were flying everywhere!!  That was a couple of months ago. My hair is on the road to recover. Check out my 1st official length check video posted to my youtube channel - 4cKinkyHairRocks.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW51YQ84sys

I would have posted the video directly to this entry, but Youtube is messing with me.  The thumbnail is ATROCIOUS!!!  Cross-eyed, snaggle puss and all that.   #SorryFolks  - YB

The Kinky LifeStyle Files: The Easter Edition [PICS]

Aside from my obsession with kinky hair, I love a good holiday get together. 

My intent was to flat twist my freshly washed hair today......I instead put together an Easter feast for the ages (with help from my good friend).  On the menu, herb roasted lamb, roasted chicken, blue cheese twice baked potatoes, bacon mac 'n cheese, Caesar salad, and garlic bread, to give just a bit of the menu.  We got dressed in our Easter finest, and had us a fancy time! -YB

Yellow Fever Strikes India!

I had to give myself 24 hours before I posted on the explosive controversy surrounding natural hair icon India Arie - YellowFever-Gate.  For starters, I am not going to post the picture here, because you all have seen it, and it is ridiculous.  I will not sully this blog with such ridiculousness.
Secondly, I can't say that I'm mad....just extremely disappointed.  This woman made her millions extolling the virtues of her brown skin, and kinky hair.....and now this.  I guess the cocoa butter she was slathering on was extra strength.  Okay - that was cheap.  I'm sorry....  I really don't believe she would actually bleach her skin.  However, when you have an artist of her stature, every official image released is approved by her.  Period.  Unless she is color blind, there is no way she could have looked at that photo and thought it was anywhere near her real skin tone.  That being said, what in the world could she have been thinking putting that mess out?  This is a direct assault on her own brand, and  a slap in the face to all of her loyal fans.  I mean, who does that?  She released a really limp explanation for the photo, citing 'magnificent' lighting.  Check out HuffPo for her statement.   SMH.  -YB

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/29/india-arie-accused-of-lightening-skin-cocoa-butter-cover_n_2980852.html

Do you know who TEYONAH PARRIS is? [PICS]

She's a cold sister, folks!  If you're not already up on this Southern Belle, she stars as Dawn Chambers on the ubiquitous AMC smash, Mad Men.  Clearly, she's not afraid to embrace  her natural beauty, giving us all types of pomp and circumstance.  We see you Teyonah! - YB